The Tradition, the Bulls, and the Debate That Never Ends
The air smells of sangria, fireworks and sweat. Church bells echo through medieval streets packed with people dressed in white. Red scarves hang loosely around thousands of necks. Then, at exactly eight o’clock, silence gives way to the sound everyone has been waiting for – the thunder of six fighting bulls charging through Pamplona.
Every July, the northern Spanish city of Pamplona transforms into one of the most electric, chaotic, and hotly debated events on the world’s festival calendar.
For nine days, hundreds of thousands of people dressed in white and red descend on the city for San Fermín – a celebration built around religious devotion, centuries-old tradition, and a daily sprint through the streets with a half-ton bull charging just behind you.
Here’s everything travelers should know before deciding whether to watch from the sidelines, or run.
A Festival Born in the Middle Ages
San Fermín’s roots stretch back to the 13th century, when it began as a purely religious observance honoring Saint Fermín, the city’s patron saint.
Originally celebrated in October, the feast gradually merged with Pamplona’s traditional summer fairs and bullfighting events. In 1591, the celebration was moved to July, where it has remained ever since.
For centuries, San Fermín was largely a local tradition. Everything changed in 1926, when Ernest Hemingway published The Sun Also Rises.
The novel introduced the festival to millions of readers around the world, transforming what had once been a regional celebration into one of Europe’s most recognizable cultural events.
Nearly a century later, many first-time visitors still make the journey to Pamplona inspired, at least in part, by Hemingway’s vivid portrayal of the fiesta.
The connection feels especially fitting in 2026, which marks the centenary of The Sun Also Rises. Even after 100 years, Hemingway’s novel continues to shape the way much of the world imagines San Fermín.
Where and When
San Fermín takes place every year in Pamplona, capital of the autonomous region of Navarre in northern Spain, running for nine days from July 6 to July 14.
How the Festival Unfolds
The Chupinazo: The festival officially begins at noon on July 6, when a rocket is launched from the Pamplona city hall balcony.
The crowd below – already dressed in the traditional white outfits and red neckerchiefs – erupts into celebration as San Fermín officially begins.
The Encierro (Running of the Bulls): This is what San Fermín is known for around the world. Every morning from July 7 to 14, at precisely 8:00 a.m., six fighting bulls and several accompanying steers are released to run through Pamplona’s narrow medieval streets.
Hundreds of thrill-seekers sprint just ahead of them along a course measuring roughly 850 meters (930 yards), ending at the bullring – a run that typically takes only two to three minutes from start to finish, but feels considerably longer for anyone caught in the chaos.
Gigantes y Cabezudos: Daily parades of giant papier-mâché figures and “big heads” delight children and families throughout the festival.
The religious procession: On July 7, a formal procession honors Saint Fermín, keeping the festival’s original devotional purpose alive alongside the revelry.
Feria del Toro: Each evening, the same bulls that ran that morning face matadors in traditional bullfights at the city’s arena.
What It All Symbolizes
San Fermín carries two layers of meaning that run side by side. The religious layer honors Saint Fermín, the first bishop of Pamplona, who was martyred by beheading in Amiens, France – a history directly echoed in the red neckerchiefs (pañuelicos) worn by participants, symbolizing his spilled blood.
Culturally, the festival has come to represent courage, community, and a kind of sanctioned chaos in which everyday social boundaries briefly dissolve – a citywide release valve of collective energy that repeats, uninterrupted, every summer.
The Risks Are Real
San Fermín’s reputation for danger isn’t exaggerated. Since official record-keeping began in 1910, 16 people have died during the running of the bulls.
The most recent fatality was in 2009, when 27-year-old Daniel Jimeno Romero was fatally gored in the throat by a bull named Capuchino.
In a typical year, somewhere between 50 and 100 people are injured – mostly from goring wounds, falls, or crush injuries in the crowded, narrow streets.
Thinking of Running? Here’s What You Should Know
Running with the bulls may look exhilarating, but it is far more dangerous than many first-time visitors realize.
Pamplona’s authorities publish strict rules each year, and anyone considering taking part should understand them before stepping onto the course. Participants must be at least 18 years old, wear suitable running shoes, and must not be under the influence of alcohol.
Running under the influence of alcohol is not only reckless but also significantly increases the risk of accidents for everyone on the course.
Experienced runners also advise against trying to outrun the bulls for the entire route. Instead, most seasoned participants choose a specific section of the course, run for only a few seconds ahead of the animals, and then move quickly to the side as soon as it is safe to do so.
Stopping suddenly, looking back while running, or attempting to film the experience with a phone or action camera can create dangerous obstacles for other runners.
For those visiting Pamplona for the first time, watching the Encierro from one of the designated viewing areas or from a balcony overlooking the route is often the safest – and arguably the best – way to experience the event.
From above, visitors can appreciate the speed, organization, and sheer intensity of the run without exposing themselves to its very real dangers.
Why the Festival Remains So Controversial
Despite its popularity, San Fermín has become one of Europe’s most debated festivals.
Animal welfare concerns
Organizations such as PETA and local activists have long protested the event, pointing to the intense stress bulls experience during the morning run – slipping on cobblestones, colliding with barriers – followed by their deaths in the evening’s bullfights. Defenders of the festival argue that the event is an integral part of Spain’s cultural heritage and should be understood within its historical context.
Crowd safety
The run attracts thousands of inexperienced or intoxicated tourists each year, significantly raising the risk of dangerous pileups and serious injury among people who often don’t understand the course or the animals’ behavior.
Behavioral and safety issues
The combination of heavy alcohol consumption and enormous crowds has, in past years, led to incidents of sexual assault and vandalism, prompting Pamplona’s authorities to introduce strict security measures, including extensive camera surveillance throughout the festival route.
San Fermín 2026: This Year’s Festival So Far
The 2026 edition is running on schedule from July 6 to 14, with total attendance over the nine days expected to approach 3 million people once again.
The festival’s fifth morning run, on Saturday, July 11, 2026, turned chaotic when a bull broke away from the pack and plowed into a crowd of runners, goring one man in the face.
According to Pamplona’s University of Navarra Hospital, twelve additional runners required treatment for injuries including fractures and bruising sustained in the resulting pileups.
As of this year’s midpoint, no fatalities have been reported, and more than 200 medical personnel remain stationed along the route daily, ready to respond within seconds of any incident.
Looking Ahead to 2027
San Fermín’s dates never change: the 2027 festival is already set to run from Wednesday, July 6, through Wednesday, July 14. Expect the same enduring tension to continue as well – between animal rights advocates and defenders of the tradition – alongside the city’s ongoing efforts to modernize its security and emergency response systems in hopes of reducing injuries during future morning runs.
Should You Go?
Whether you plan to watch from a balcony, join the crowds in the plaza for the Chupinazo, or actually run the course yourself, San Fermín remains one of the most intense, immersive cultural experiences in Europe – a festival that asks its visitors to decide, quite literally, how close to the danger they want to stand.
For some, San Fermín is an unforgettable celebration of history and community. For others, it is an outdated tradition that has no place in the modern world.
More than four centuries after it first began, San Fermín continues to divide opinion while drawing millions of visitors to Pamplona every summer – a reminder that the world’s most enduring traditions are often its most complicated.
Sources:
- CBS News, “Bull gores runner in the face at Spain’s San Fermin bull run festival, 12 others hurt,” cbsnews.com (July 11, 2026)
- The Associated Press / CBC News, “Runner gored in the face at Spain’s San Fermin bull run festival,” cbc.ca (July 11, 2026)
- The Washington Post, “One runner gored in the face at Spain’s San Fermin bull run festival,” washingtonpost.com (July 11, 2026)
- Encyclopaedia Britannica, “San Fermín Festival,” britannica.com
- City of Pamplona, official San Fermín festival portal, sanfermin.com
